Autumn 2024 | A Pig In A Poke | The 2nd Annual Mo' Butta Allocation
The man waives his arms demonstrably as if to pronounce importance and gravity in knowing all there is to know about Pinot Noir. He’s pulling it off confidently in a rare, neck out performance. “You should be selling this Pinot Noir for at least $800 a bottle!” He’s speaking of our 2021 Kings Ridge Pinot Noir and he’s dropping all the right names in the same breath: Domaine Leroy Musigny Grand Cru, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti Grand Cru, Domaine Roumier Musigny Grand Cru, Weingut Daniel & Marta Gantenbein, Domaine Takahiko Nana-Tsu-Mori, and Marcassin. Phew! He’s a fast talker and he’s swelling my ego like a wet cork on a hot, summer day. He hits all the high points on making wine too: 100% organic vineyard to barrel processing, native fermentations, low sulfur maintenance, hand punch downs, cold soaks, and on it goes.
He’s relentless in the pursuit of sharing his credentials: WSET-IV, Certified Sommelier, MS, MW, all crowding his card like a resume where the only thing missing is the GPA. He’s gorgeous, yet rugged, like the most interesting man in the world, Dos Equis guy. He’s pulling out all the stops and boosts an added bonus: He’s dressed immaculately. Head-to-toe tailoring and sparing no expense. Kitton men’s wool cashmere herringbone suit, Del Toro loafers, and a stunning Patek Philipe watch. And, he smells like a god (though, ironic that he’s wearing fragrance to a wine tasting event).
As he takes a breath, swirling his glass vigorously, and burrowing his nose deeper into his glass than a Lagotto Romagnolo hunting for truffles, I break in to ask the obvious question.
“So tell me about your winemaking experience – I can only imagine, but let me guess, Domaine Leroy? Or is it all of the aforementioned from Burgundy?” I witness his confidence crack with a slight twitch under his left eye. He mumbles inaudibly, blue eyes darting, looking for his wolf pack, all of which have moved on to other winery tables. There is no one to buffer his bluff. Hmmmm…, so I press on. “Okay, if not a winemaker, then you must have worked in executive wine sales?” More mumbles and avoidance and more demonstrative hands now flailing a bit, as he pretends to lose interest in the wines and the conversation.
It then occurs to me, this man is selling a pig in a poke. He's all book smarts with zero field time and he’s never been in the wine business. He’s put on one hell of a show, and he’s nearly pulled it off.
As he stands before me, he realizes he’s trapped and needs a way out. And, he finds it. He sees that DuMol is pouring two tables down from me and proclaims, “Aha! DuMol. My friend now that is pure Pinot perfection right there, wouldn’t you agree? Top of the rock!” He shuffles away swiftly, stage right, and I hear him bellow, “Tell me, no let me guess, $1,100 a bottle?” Just like that, he’s back to doing what he does best.
I get it. Sometimes it is difficult to discern what makes a great bottle of Pinot Noir “great.” Right? I have heard from a number of you and how you have given up on collectible Pinot Noir because you have been “burned” by the illusive, temperamental nature of the variety. Unfortunately, most often the number one gravitational point in determining a luxury wine is its price. And let’s face it, one winemaker’s juice is another person’s gold if price positioned properly. A famous winemaker once said, “You cannot make great wine from bad grapes.” But many sure put up a good show because the economic reality of this business is challenging. How else can a winery compete unless it follows the herd to stay relevant?
The historic rise in the volume of wines moving to a luxury tier position is a recent phenomenon within American winemaking circles that is driving many consumers away from our trade. The fact is, nothing has changed in terms of winemaking or grape sourcing - other than the luxury positioning the brand is now seeking. While that may be one direction many are adopting within the wine business, we have chosen our own path.
We are in pursuit of perfection. Our ultimate pinnacle – where we are going – is to grow and produce Pinot Noir from every subregion throughout Sonoma County with the objective to eventually combine micro amounts of those subregions into one, magnificent Pinot Noir. When produced to perfection, and in only the finest vintages, this Pinot Noir will age gracefully for 20 years.
It is a big ask. I know. However, when we do get there and we do ask you to believe in this effort, you can rest assured of one thing: we won’t be selling you a pig in a poke.
Speaking of pigs. We have changed the name of what was our “La Cinghiale” GSM to the new – and appropriate – Cinghiale Rosso GSM. Friends, this wine is off the charts delicious. Know what else rocks in this Autumn release? West Pyramid Pinot Noir from the Bucher Vineyard. Better than ever, this is a don’t miss release. And, finally, our new house favorite among the Croix Estate team is the debut vintage of Petaluma Gap Chardonnay from the Sun Chase Vineyard. This stuff is lip smackin’ deliciousness.
Get in here, have some fun, and take advantage of cascading savings. We thank you for your support of our dreams. Without you, Croix Estate is not possible.
Acquire Your Allocation Here
2022 West Pyramid Pinot Noir | Bucher Estate Vineyard, Russian River Valley
GRAPE VARIETY(S): 100% Pinot Noir Clone, Pommard | THE VINEYARD(S): Buchar Vineyard, Middle Reach
Yeah baby! This is gorgeous, mouthwatering stuff. Opening up with sexy, fragrant tangerine and orange rind, white pepper, honeysuckle, sweet saddle leather, strawberry cream, cardamom, Cuban pipe-tobacco, a dash of Earl Grey tea, and a full serving of cherry cola. The mouth is watering for what comes next. Ripe fig, Bosque pear, blue herbs, baked red fruit pie, a touch of toasted oak, finishing silky, peppery, bright and rich with substantial glide, with the perfect balance of ripe fruit and backbeat harmony. WOW! The Buchar family operation is an all-american, immigrants make good on a dream through self-determination story. Joe and Annemarie immigrated from Luzern, Switzerland in 1950, settling first in San Jose with a dream of owning a dairy farm in Northern California. Born in 1929, Joe came from a family of dairy farmers in the tiny town of Inwil. With dairy farming in his blood, Joe was determined to establish his own operation to continue the family legacy in the United States. By 1958 Joe and Annemarie had located a 360-acre dairy for sale just outside the town of Healdsburg. The two invested their life savings on the purchase and began their journey with just 50 head of dairy cows and a few calves, making the decision to produce organic milk from cows raised on a strict diet of organic alfalfa and hay. This would set the bar high for parceling land from which to farm grapes. Their son John graduated from UC Davis in 1984 and returned to Healdsburg to manage the dairy operation. John recognized an opportunity to diversify their land with a high value crop in vitis vinifera, in particular, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Convincing his parents of the decision to branch into the winegowing business, the first vineyard blocks of Pinot Noir were planted in 1997. Located adjacent to Buchar Farms on Westside Road, in the heart of the Middle Reach of the Russian River Valley AVA, Buchar Vineyards consists of 38 sustainably farmed acres, two of which are planted to Chardonnay. The 36 acres of Pinot Noir are broken into 14 distinct blocks, utilizing 10 distinct clones: Opa’s (943, Mariafeld, Calera), Rock Ridge (Pommard), Saddle (Swan), West Pyramid (Pommard), North Pyramid (Pommard), Pear Tree (Dijon 667), South Hill (Dijon 115, Mt. Eden), Frost Hill West (Mt. Eden), Frost Hill East (Mt. Eden), North L (Dijon 777), Torry’s (Pommard), Raspbery (Pommard), House (Dijon 115), and South L (777).
$68
2022 Cinghiale Rosso GSM Red Blend | Kick Ranch Vineyard, Rincon Valley
GRAPE VARIETY(S): 58% Syrah, 38% Grenache, 9% Mourvedre THE VINEYARD(S): Kick Ranch Vineyard, Rincon Valley
To the Northwest of Cazadero Station lies a hidden foot trail that leads backcountry hikers on what is perhaps the most breathtaking, yet dangerous, trek out to the Annapolis ridgeline overlooking the coast at Stuart’s Point. Weighing in at 600+ pounds at full maturity, the boar males are territorial of all intruders and the females violently protective of their young. To the casual hiker, approaching the Kings Ridge section of the hike requires a soft shoe and keen hearing, lest you encounter the ferocity of these feral beasts. The boar was not indigenous to California, yet it has managed to survive and thrive untamed in the densely wooded, northern regions of the state. A testament to the strength and character of the species. Small lot Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre and the blended GSM captured our hearts decades ago coming up in the industry. Grown to perfection and in the right locations, there was magic in the bottle of these off-variety productions that offered a range of styles from quaffable, aromatic beauties to hedonistic ink bombs that everyone seemed to pan at our wine parties, despite not a drop being spared in the bottles of the heartier efforts. It was, particularly during the late 1990’s, with Zinfandel and GSM productions that we witnessed a cultural shift in production from lower alcohol wines to more fruit forward, fully ripened renditions. That’s where we come in with our version of GSM. Croix Estate enthusiasts have come to recognize that we are not shy about growing fruit to its optimal ripeness. However, where there is ripeness, there is balance and harmony, and our Croix Estate Cinghiale GSM Red Blend is no exception on both fronts. Massive yet balanced with relentless complexity, this wine smashes the senses with honey smoked meats, saddle leather, sweet white chocolate, strawberry compote, blueberries, bruised plums, blue herbs, and sweet cedar. Whoah! A roaring, mouthcoating sensation overtakes the palate, with lush, dark fruits, cherry cola, rhubarb pie, and an undertow of smoked bacon and fatty deliciousness, finishing with a hint of vanilla cream. This wine is full and complete. It is avant-gard jazz in a glass, The Buddie Ritch of wine that keeps your head groovin’ to the beat. You will absoluytely love this wine.
$60
2022 Petaluma Gap Chardonnay | Sun Chase Vineyard, Petaluma Gap
GRAPE VARIETY: 100% Chardonnay| THE VINEYARD: Sun Chase Vineyard | Method: Wholecluster Direct Press Into Neutral French Oak, Native Primary & Secondary Fermentation
Sun Chase Vineyard is among the most highly sought-after vineyards in the Petaluma Gap AVA - a coastal mountain opening that draws brisk winds and cooling fog from the coast toward the San Pablo Bay. Located on a southwest facing hillside that sits at 1,400 feet above the valley floor, the vineyard consists of 248 acres grown in perpetual sunshine just above a persistent fog line. The cool breezes well up from the gap floor, influencing daytime diurnal temperature fluctuations, allowing for slow and even maturation of the fruit. The rocky hillside soils are derived from volcanic parent material known as basalt which has a low concentration of magnesium but very rich in minerals which is ideal for cultivating premium, cool-climate Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Winner, winner, chicken dinner! A new “house favorite”, this is an exotic, complex Chardonnay with notes of flower oil, Meyer lemon, candle wax, toasted spice, and sweet citrus. Rich and full-bodied, yet deftly balanced with a cleansing ridge of acidity, this Chardonnay captures the imagination with nuances of delicious ripe pear, creamy Crème brûlée, and a mouthwatering finish. Fans of crisp, full styles of the variety with love this rendition.
$65